MALE CALL : Updating a good tuxedo is easy as changing shirts
Posted on Sunday, October 5, 2008
Q. I have owned a well-cut tuxedo since college. My wife wants me to do something new and different to spark up my tux. I think it’s great that I already own my own (and that it still fits ). You always write about how formalwear does not go out of style. I agree. Do you have a suggestion for something that might be a compromise ?
A. Congratulations on still fitting into your college tux ! As you know, I am not a fan of anything too new or innovative in blacktie dressing or such outdated styles as banded-collar shirts with no bow ties and colored shirts with ruffles. Part of the elegance of classic black-tie apparel is its permanence.
My usual suggestion is to buy a crisp new (spanking white ) formal pleated dress shirt. You have a choice: either the totally correct formal shirt with a soft fold-down collar or choose the newer — and more flattering, even if not so strictly correct — wing collar. A handsome new shirt will do wonders to freshen your look.
If what you want is something a bit distinctive, consider buying a handsome silk formal vest. It’s a smart look that adds dash and eliminates the need for a cummerbund — for some reason a lot of younger men dislike wearing a cummerbund. One advantage of wearing a cummerbund or a vest is that they cover up the bottom buttons on the shirt. Years ago, stud sets had only three studs because men all wore a vest. In the past 30 years or so, stud sets have come in sets of four. But, often a man still risks having the bottom shirt button exposed when he doesn’t wear a vest or cummerbund to cover the waistband. Keep in mind that wearing a belt is an absolute no-no for black-tie attire.
Stud sets finish off the look nicely. Besides, they offer an opportunity for adding some personal style. Men who complain because they know it is never in good taste for men to wear clear, glittery stones (diamonds, rubies, sapphires and such ) should take note that studs are the one place where such indulgences are considered tasteful and perfectly acceptable.
If you wear a cummerbund, remember that it may — but does not need to — match your black silk bow tie. You might check out one of the quietly patterned bow tie and cummerbund sets. They can be sophisticated and festive in, say, a dark “Black Watch” tartan. Just don’t allow yourself to fall into the trap of buying a matched bright-red set that looks like a high school prom or worse, Chippendale’s.
You must have noticed on TV awards shows the latest black-tie innovation, substituting for the bow tie a standard long (fourin-hand ) necktie in one of a few colors, either a solid silk satin in black, silver gray or champagne color. While these are not precisely Old School “correct” for an elegant wedding, you will see others dressed this way, especially if the crowd is young and “with it.”
For the absolutely least expensive way to add a bit of flair, just buy yourself a white silk breast-pocket handkerchief or a tiny white rose to wear as a boutonniere.
Q. Although I always buy my size (36 waist, 30 length ), they seem to vary greatly. Some of my pants fit perfectly. Others leave a lot to be desired. Before I buy a new pair, what should I look for so I can be sure they will fit and I will be happy with them ?
A. First, you have to make yourself try them on. This advice is obvious for women, but men all too often ignore it. Not only do sizes vary, so do numerous important elements of the cut. When you are shopping, check yourself out in the store’s threeway mirror. Do you like the way the pants look ? Do they fit the way you want them to ? And do they feel comfortable ? After answering these questions first, then — if you know how to recognize superior construction — you can make an informed choice.
Here are several hallmarks of quality to look for according to Barry Bricken, one of America’s most respected trouser designers. The fly lies flat so you don’t see the top of the zipper.
The crease of the leg falls perfectly straight and does not swing out. The side seams are straight so you don’t see the inside of the pocket; pockets lie flush to the body with no gapping. The pleats (if any ) should not pull open. The cut should be generous. Pants should be full enough so they drape well without clinging anywhere on the leg.
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